Dublin Castle

We did a wonderful tour of Dublin Castle - we had a great tour guide (recent PhD in architectural history, teaching first-years at Trinity College now) who gave lots of interesting information on the history of the castle. 

The original castle was almost completely destroyed by fire in 1684, but some parts remain, such as the records tower.  In the 1980's, the base of another tower and part of a side wall was discovered. 

It was the first castle built by the British in Ireland over 1000 years ago, and 153 viceroys lived or worked there until 1922.  British rule of Ireland ended in 1922, and since then the castle has remained as an important ceremonial center for presidential inaugurations, receiving of foreign heads of state, and other official events. 

Records tower behind royal cathedral

Old gate excavated in 1980's

One of several Waterford crystal chandeliers in the state rooms of the castle

Ladies drawing room

A Van Dyke portrait of a countess, from the 1600's

The paintings on the ceiling in the main state room were not done in place, rather they were done on canvases and positioned up there afterward. 

After Dublin Castle, we found a nice place for dinner, then walked around town some more. 

One of the many bridges over the Liffey River

Trinity College Old Library and Book of Kells

We walked from Kilronan House into town through a beautiful park and got a great lunch at Keogh Café. Then we walked to Trinity College and toured the Book of Kells exhibit in the Old Library.  

Our travelers, of all ages, are getting tired. We are enjoying exploring Dublin on foot and by ourselves. If we were on a tour bus, I'd be batty crazy by this point. I certainly prefer going it on our own, even though I know there are advantages to other touring options, too. 

Old Library at Trinity College

Beggar

Driving to Kilronan House in Dublin

Holy cow, THAT was an adventure. I'm exhausted. Last night, I got on Maps on the iPad and wrote down the dozen or so turns (road numbers) we'd need to make to get to the last B&B of the trip, and from there to the Budget car hire place where we needed to return the car by 11am. I was so confident that I could navigate us straight to the place that I insisted that Bill drive us in.  He is the more navigationally gifted of the two of us, but I was very sure of myself.  Once it was clear, as we both reached then passed Dublin, that I didn't have the first actual, reliable clue how to get there, we stopped and switched to our more suitable roles of me, driver, and Bill, navigator.  

There are no road numbers posted anywhere once you get to the outskirts of Dublin. The names of the roads are occasionally listed on the corners of buildings, but every block, the road names change. Seriously, every block.  And, even after Bill figured out where we were, the one-ways were not marked on the map, which gave us an added challenge.  Finally, we got to Kilronan House, which is amazing, beautiful, and in a nice part of town (Mimi rocked it out on finding really nice places for us to stay during our trip - thank you, Mimi!!).

We dropped our bags off, and left the kids with Mimi and Papa, and got back on the crazy roads to find Budget Car Hire.  Bill did a stellar job navigating and we wound our way around. We ended up on a road that Bill said when it came to a T, it would be the road the place was on, and we'd have to choose left or right.  As luck would have it, when we got to the end, we saw the Budget sign directly in front of us – hallelujah!!  We somehow managed to pick a road that took us right to it.  I loved driving in Ireland, but driving in Dublin (even as briefly as it was) was a nightmare, and I was very glad to be shed of the car. 

We quickly hailed a taxi and got back to Kilronan House in short order. Our driver was a hoot. Very opinionated and not at all shy. Mimi and Papa and the kids looked like they'd been shot with sleepy darts when we found them in one of our rooms. Kilronan House is beautifully appointed, and centrally located for easy walks to interesting parts of the city. 

Trim Castle

We drove from Galway to Trim today. We found our B&B, White Lodge, with not too much hassle.  After getting our luggage settled in our rooms, we walked through the park to tour Trim Castle. Trim Castle was built in the late 1100's, added to a couple of times over the next few hundred years, then finished as a castle fort by the 1600's and left to ruin until the 1800's when Anglo-Irish folks starting touring the castles (during the Romantic Period).  Trim is one of the few castles in Ireland that has not been drastically restored, which makes it very interesting to tour, because you can see more of the structural and architectural details.  We named the castle cat 'Moo Cat'.  He is a typical cat - acting disinterested when the kids tried to get him to come to them, then walking into their path when they turned walked away.  He flopped over and let them love on him, purring. Silly cat. 

After the tour, we caught a late lunch at a quaint little café, then took the river walk back to our B&B.  We saw some horses, donkeys, and puppies, and lots of ruins. 

Bill's gut has been giving him fits off and on for a few days – it's really starting to wear him down. Now he has a low-grade fever, just enough to make him feel cruddy. :(  It's never any fun being sick, and worse when you're traveling. He still cuts a handsome figure in a picture, though. Some got it, some ain't. ;)

Roads with no shoulders are typical fare in Ireland. Most cars have significant scrapes and scratches down both sides. It's quite hair-raising the first 30-40 times you meet a tour bus on these roads, then you start to get used to it. 

This might be my favorite picture of them on this trip.  That's Yellow Steeple ruins in the background. 

The north tower collapsed, but was where foods were stored (cold side of castle).  

Castle was surrounded by curtain wall for defense. 

Smart engineering/architectural design – corner of curtain wall was built with two 2-feet thick walls. Attacks from outside might get through exterior wall, but interior wall would remain intact – takes longer to penetrate for enemies. 

You poor peasants are beneath my dignity. 

Wait! Don't leave! You must beg more for my love! 

I don't know what I was thinking. You guys are great. <3

Getting ready for our tour. 

This toilet was likely covered with a wooden seat, somewhat similar to what we use today. 

View looking down from above the toilet seat. 'Plumbing' has evolved significantly since then. 

Kiddos taking it all in from our guide. 

We have enjoyed some magnificent weather since we've been here. The locals say this is not typical. 

Filmed in Trim in 1994, took home 5 academy awards in 1995. 

Horses saying 'come play with us'

Donkey sweetie pie

Crazy cute puppy

Saints Peter and Paul Cathedral ruins

Connemara - part 2

After lunch in Clifden, we toured Kylemore Abbey. Beautiful castle, church, and walled gardens.  Built by Mitchell Henry for his wife, Margaret, with his inheritance. They had 9 kids. She died at age 45, on a vacation trip to India (she contracted dysentery).  He never remarried and died penniless 36 years later in 1910.  In 1920, a group of Benedictine nuns bought the place and turned it into Kylemore Abbey. For many years, they ran a private boarding school for girls. The school is closed, but the nuns are still there - among other things, they make chocolate. They are slowly refurbishing the gardens with grants and charitable donations. It's a perfectly situated place, nestled among large rock mountains and lakes - very retreat-like and peaceful.  The rhododendron are all over, and are in bloom right now. Just gorgeous.  It was fitting that we toured the church right at 3pm - the same time our friends were burying a loved one back home in Knoxville. Godspeed, Patricia Beeler Lewis. 

When we got back to Galway, Josie wanted another pizza from Fat Freddy's, and we were all happy to oblige. The first toast was to Pat. 

Peat bogs

Kylemore Abbey

Taken by nice folks from Maryland!

Marble from several regions of Ireland was used for this church

The rhododendron climbs all the way to the top of the mountain. Stunning to see so much of it in glorious bloom. 

More sheep on the road on the way back to Galway