Friday, May 30, 2014

Connemara - part 2

After lunch in Clifden, we toured Kylemore Abbey. Beautiful castle, church, and walled gardens.  Built by Mitchell Henry for his wife, Margaret, with his inheritance. They had 9 kids. She died at age 45, on a vacation trip to India (she contracted dysentery).  He never remarried and died penniless 36 years later in 1910.  In 1920, a group of Benedictine nuns bought the place and turned it into Kylemore Abbey. For many years, they ran a private boarding school for girls. The school is closed, but the nuns are still there - among other things, they make chocolate. They are slowly refurbishing the gardens with grants and charitable donations. It's a perfectly situated place, nestled among large rock mountains and lakes - very retreat-like and peaceful.  The rhododendron are all over, and are in bloom right now. Just gorgeous.  It was fitting that we toured the church right at 3pm - the same time our friends were burying a loved one back home in Knoxville. Godspeed, Patricia Beeler Lewis. 

When we got back to Galway, Josie wanted another pizza from Fat Freddy's, and we were all happy to oblige. The first toast was to Pat. 

Peat bogs

Kylemore Abbey


Taken by nice folks from Maryland!




Marble from several regions of Ireland was used for this church



The rhododendron climbs all the way to the top of the mountain. Stunning to see so much of it in glorious bloom. 



More sheep on the road on the way back to Galway







 






Connemara National Park - part 1

Josie is fever-free so far today!  She clearly feels much better, and we are very glad for that. She had a rough day yesterday. 

We are stopping for lunch at an old station house that has been refurbished in Clifden. The drive from Galway here is beautiful. We can't get over how pretty everything is in Ireland. 










Built 'for no reason'. These sound like fun folks. =)









Thursday, May 29, 2014

Rest day in Galway - Josie is sick :(

We walked around the City Center a little bit this morning and let the kids shop some. Josie had complained of her throat hurting a little last night and first thing this morning, which is not an infrequent occurrence because of her continual fight with allergies. But by late morning, she was starting to look sick in the eyes, her 'tell'.  I checked her temp and it was 100.2.  She and I camped out in the hotel room for the afternoon so she could rest.  By late afternoon, her fever climbed to 103.7, despite 2 doses of ibuprofen. :(  We've been trying to push fluids, and if she's still got a fever in the morning we will seek help from a doctor. 

Bill stayed with her this evening while Mimi, Papa, Mitch, Samantha, and I went to hear traditional Irish music at a nearby pub and catch some dinner.  They were incredible.  Sorry Josie didn't get to hear them. Maybe she will be back to rights tomorrow and we can go again. The group we saw had a violin, a banjo, and two on accordions.  Stellar musicians, especially the violinist and one of the accordion players.  They picked a tune to do, then changed their minds a couple of times when deciding in what key to play it. 
'Let's do it in D.'
'Yeah.'
'How about C?'
(Nods)
'A-minor?'
(Pause for thinking and little bit of practice fingering out the melody) 'Yeah! Let's do it.'
And away they went.  By my terrible ear, not a note missed, although I saw a visual exchange between two of the players that seemed to betray a slip-up.  Fun to watch, great to hear. I hope we can all go tomorrow, because that will mean Josie is feeling better. 

Mitch's choice for a souvenir is entertaining. =)

Josie wanted sheep key rings, because of all the sheep we've seen. The white one is Arnie, the black one is Clover.

Samantha's choice, a Claddagh ring (a traditional Irish symbol for love, friendship, and loyalty)

(Hard to see, perhaps, but this 'travelator' has no steps, just a linear slope top to bottom, and they ask you not to walk on it, just stand and hold on to the railing.  It was a little odd-feeling, when you're used to stepped escalators)






Wednesday, May 28, 2014

First night in Galway

We walked around the streets near our hotel (Jurys Inn) and found a great pizza joint called Fat Freddy's. That and a pale ale (local artisan brew called the Galway Hooker, felt weird asking for it :).

After supper, we walked along the bay a little bit - a lovely stroll after a long day. The kids counted 24 different swans - none of us had ever seen that many in one place. 

Tomorrow we are going to take a rest day. No big trips planned, just exploring the city on foot and taking it easy. The kids have been great travelers so far. A rest day will help keep it that way!  =)


Upside down kayak frame used to hang main room lights at Fat Freddy's.  Wine bottle lamps around the edge of the room. 




Rugby players practicing




Sailboats in Galway Bay in the background








The Burren & Aillwee Cave Birds of Prey show

Today we explored the Burren in County Clare. Beautiful!

We saw the Poulnabrone Tomb site, built 6500 years ago. We walked around on the Burren rocks near Galway Bay, and we toured the Caherconnell Stone Fort. Had a delicious ham, cheese, and tomato relish sandwich at the stone fort. 

We also went to Aillwee Cave to see the birds of prey show. Fabulous!  They brought out a Bateleur eagle (African eagle), a barn owl, and a Saker falcon.  The eagle sought out prey using ultraviolet vision, the owl with excellent hearing, and the falcon with speed. The falcon used thermals to climb several hundred feet in the air, then did an impressive stoop back down to the demonstration area - wicked fast!  Each kid (including me) got to be a perch for one of the birds - great fun. 

We saw a pair of swans in Galway Bay on our drive to Galway.  First swans in nature for the kids. 

Galway is the second largest city in Ireland after Dublin, and our hotel is right in the city center. Parking in the garage next to the hotel is typical for large cities - very tight and narrow. With help from Bill and Dad, I was able to wedge the car into a spot - I thought I was going to cry from the stress of it all. I don't like city driving anywhere, but city driving on the left side of the road is doubly stressful. (If I were a better map reader, I'd have let Bill do the driving today.)  Anyway, thankfully that's over and there is a pub nearby.  Momma needs a drink!








Mitch with the eagle, above. 

(Sam's bird shots are video - link to come)

Josie with the barn owl. 

Nobody held the falcon - she was a nervy bird. 

Poulnabrone tomb (4th c. BCE)


Caherconnell stone fort

The kids making friends with a young cow.



The beautiful Burren